When you go out for sushi, how often do you think about where the fish comes from? The answer can vary depending on where you are in the world, but much of the time, there’s a good chance it comes directly from Japan.
Premium cuts of bluefin tuna and Hokkaido scallops are flown in from places like Toyosu and Tsukiji Markets in Tokyo, sold for top dollar, and flown to countries worldwide.
Sushi Chef Yasu Ouchi is originally from Osaka and is the chef and owner of Rockpool in Beverly Hills. He previously opened high-end sushi restaurants in Toronto and Los Angeles. Still, this past summer, he decided to do something different.
When he arrived in Los Angeles, he was impressed by the quality of some locally caught fish, such as the Santa Barbara sea urchin, halibut, and black cod. He began making connections to get linked up with local fishermen who were catching fish off the coast of San Clemente.
“The ocean waters are deep with clear water,” Ouchi said as he described the pristine conditions for catching quality locally caught fish.
Understanding sushi
Sushi was first served in Tokyo in the 1820s as a type of “fast food” when it was known as Edomae. Edo is the old name for Tokyo — Edo Bay, where Japan's fishing industry was born.
There are a few factors to consider when it comes to quality sushi. Maintaining freshness is critical, depending on how the fish are harvested. The Japanese used a method known as ikejime (or ike jime), which involves euthanizing the fish by quickly puncturing the brain and then inserting a wire through its spinal column to prevent flapping, which causes bleeding and can affect the quality of the fish.
While ikejime is a standard in Japan, it’s less so in the United States, yet that’s changing.
“I'm trying to create a process like Japan but in California by connecting with local fishermen and doing that,” Ouchi said.
While fresh fish is essential for the quality of the sushi, other factors are establishing its taste. Ouchi points out that freshly caught fish can lack flavor, and slight aging allows it to develop more umami flavors. The marker of quality sushi must contain a balance of freshness and flavors. It’s tricky, depending on the fish and its origin.
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Ouchi wants to use the same framework for locally caught fish in California. “It's the same idea. There are great fish here, so why not use them?” he said.
Sourcing sustainably
The benefits for consumers of locally caught fish vary. Nick Rahaim, a public affairs representative for NOAA Fisheries West Coast region, says it's better for the local economy. Also, locally caught fish in the United States are usually more environmentally sustainable.
“That's not to say that imported fish is inherently unsustainable; you just don't know which fishery it's from, so usually a little research is required to figure out the sustainability of a catch,” Rahiam said.
Other factors to consider when determining sustainability are the various specific endangered or protected fish that populate the state’s rivers and oceans. Rahiam uses the example of California salmon, whose fishing season has been closed for the last two years," not because of overfishing, but because of many environmental factors, especially habitat loss, warming waters, and river systems within California.”
The cost of local fish
Upon entering the small space, there’s an elegant, minimally decorated room with a room-length sushi bar with a modern aesthetic and a small row of tables against the back wall. The space feels upscale yet still approachable, aligning with Ouchi’s vision.
I had the omakase lunch special, which featured 10 pieces of sushi for $38. Other omakase options include the Omakase Sea Breeze for $58, Omakase for $78, and ordering al carte.
Ouchi's menu features a mix of fish locally caught in Southern California and imported from Japan. The day I visited, I sampled locally caught rockfish, black cod, and halibut. He also serves locally caught sea urchin from Santa Barabra.
While that’s a great value, Ouchi points out that local fish is still more expensive than fish from other parts of the world. Factors such as supply chains and volume play a significant role in this. In September 2024, NOAA Fisheries announced its National Seafood Strategy to strengthen all U.S. locally caught seafood systems.
“Local fish is sustainable, but business is not sustainable at the moment. Labor is expensive; gas is expensive. Everything is expensive right now,” Ouchi said.
Quality you can taste
When sampling some of the local cuts at Ouchi, you can taste the difference in the fish he uses. He constantly tinkers with the flavor profiles regarding the age of the fish and salt added to the amount of vinegar used in the rice for each piece of sushi.
“You need to adjust for the fish. Even in Los Angeles, the standards are different from Japanese sushi. There is a style of sushi already,” Ouchi said.
The difference in taste is subtle in terms of delivery. The quality of the locally caught fish is quite apparent once you try it. It’s that simple, melt-in-your-mouth feel that I look for in every sushi experience — the perfect balance of flavors with slightly vinegared rice and the texture of flesh containing a mixture of soft yet firm.
The changing tide
Despite those quality markers, Ouchi has his work cut out for him when winning over L.A.'s sushi-going masses. He understands that many potential customers want that “authentic” sushi experience, especially those looking for a high-end experience and wanting sushi to contain fish from Japan.
“In Japan, we can get more reasonably priced fish that is high quality and easy to access daily,” he said. “I want to make my sushi restaurant like one in Japan.”
Speaking of Japan, his answer was simple when asked why he is so committed to locally caught fish and sustainability: “Community.”
He noted how, in Japan, at places such as the Toyosu market, significant qualities of high-end fish cuts are auctioned off to the highest bidder who can purchase the most and are often sent to places like China or Thailand. Ouchi believes it will increasingly become more challenging for Japan to enjoy the best fish their home country can offer. “
Hence, Ouchi wants to offer the people of Los Angeles the experience of locally caught fish.
“The ocean is connected. It's the same,” he said. “And the technique is authentic; it's the same. So we can use local fish and use genuine techniques. It's supposed to be, and you should make it a good sushi at the regional level so we can be sustainable in the community.”
