Under-The-Radar Banh Mi, On-The-Go Dim Sum, And Serene Korean Banchan: Cheap Fast Eats Chinatown Edition

Sitting directly next to downtown, Chinatown as we know it today was originally a mixed neighborhood of different immigrant communities, Asian but also Mexican and Italian. It became known as New Chinatown in the 1930s after residents of the original Chinatown were displaced due to the construction of Union Station.

These days the issue of displacement remains a concern. Walking around Chinatown, you get the sense that it’s an area rapidly changing, with old storefronts either sitting vacant or being torn down, and new highrise structures serving as a backdrop.

While many from Asian communities have moved to the suburbs, other low-income and elderly residents have stayed put, fighting for proper living conditions and access to grocery stores.

Food is often political and can serve as a vehicle for this systemic change, from encroaching chain restaurants like the Buffalo Wild Wings on Cesar Chavez Avenue to newer independent restaurants spaces such as Lokels Only, located in the Jia Apartments building, which serves as an incubator for local pop-up restaurants.

Grassroots organizations like the Chinatown Community for Equitable Development have been confronting these new businesses, holding them accountable to the community's needs.

Here at Cheap Fast Eats, we strive to accurately represent the neighborhoods we visit, so we’re featuring both old and new Chinatown restaurants to give you a sense of what it's like to dine in the area.

This is Cheap Fast Eats Chinatown.

Long Family Pastry

Chicken buns, zongzi, shumai, har gow, sesame seed balls, BBQ buns and egg tarts amongst other items from Long’s Family Pastry.

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While dim sum carts are becoming a thing of the past due to restrictions brought on by the pandemic, and while there are some traditional sit-down restaurants in the area, if you’re in a hurry, to-go dim sum is the way to go in Chinatown.

Long’s Family Pastry is a perfect example. When you enter the small indoor space, located on a quiet part of Spring Street, you’ll be welcomed by brightly-lit bakery cases packed with a variety of dim sum, plus pastries with fillings of everything from hot dogs to red bean paste.

At Long’s, the special chicken bun is a crowd favorite. Tearing into the bun, you’ll find a mixture of ground chicken, lap cheong (cured Chinese sausage), hard-boiled egg, and other mixed vegetables. A couple of the buns are more than enough to fill you up. If you want more variety, there’s the zongzi, advertised as a Chinese tamale, a sticky rice dumpling filled with lap cheong, peanuts, and different veggies wrapped in bamboo leaves. Digging through it with your fork almost feels like a treasure hunt.

You can also get your fill of shumai dumplings, taro, and turnip cakes to enjoy at home, the perfect parting gift to yourself for future dim sum cravings.

Pedestrians and customers outside of Long’s Family Pastry.

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My Dung Sandwich Shop

Pedestrians and customers outside of Bánh Mì Mỹ Dung.

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Brian Feinzimer

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A banh mi sandwich is one of life’s many pleasures, with its crusty bread, fresh garnishes made of sweet-tasting carrots and daikon radish, and a protein combo of your liking. A good banh mi can be found in areas such as the San Gabriel Valley or Westminster in Orange County, known as Little Saigon. However, finding them in other parts of Los Angeles can sometimes be more challenging.

One under-the-radar gem is the tiny storefront of My Dung, located on Ord Street between Broadway and Spring Street. It doesn’t exactly scream neighborhood sandwich destination upon the first arrival. You’re greeted by fresh produce stacked outside the entrance, including bunches of bananas hanging from the outside awning. The same goes when entering what appears to be a corner store, but take a quick stroll to the back, and you’ll find a menu board with about eight different sandwiches for around $5 - $8.

Grab a seat inside or hang outside while you wait for sandwiches. When they call your number, unwrap your offerings and dig in. The perfect crusty roll, which maintains the same level of softness on the inside of the bun, envelopes the sandwich's contents, whether it be cold cuts, barbeque pork, or shredded tofu, with a helping of pâté slathered inside, plus carrot, daikon, cilantro, and cucumber providing that extra bit of roughage. The ultra-fresh ingredients, paired with the salty-savory cuts of meat creates a highly satisfying experience.

Brian De Los Santos and Gab Chabrán with sandwiches from Bánh Mì Mỹ Dung.

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Brian Feinzimer

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LAist

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Angry Egret Dinette

Customers sit outside at Angry Egret Dinette.

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Chef Wes Avila's cafe inside the Mandarin Plaza feels like an oasis off busy Broadway. Avila, originally of Guerilla Tacos, opened up Angry Egret Dinette in Oct. 2020 as a pandemic project where he could serve whatever food he could dream up, via a window in an open-air patio setting.

The type of cuisine that Avila serves at Angry Egret Dinette could be classified as many things, from "Alta California cuisine" to comfort food, but whatever it is, it's nothing short of mouthwatering. With a variety of influences from growing up in nearby Pico Rivera and working in fine dining restaurants, he serves up several sublime dishes he calls L.A.-style cuisine.

Owner/chef Wes Avila at Angry Egret Dinette.

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Order the egg sandwich for $8 with a pillowy pile of soft scrambled eggs, layered on both sides of an American cheese sandwich, on an ultra cushiony bolillo bread sourced from a bakery in East L.A.

For a couple of bucks more, try the McTorta, made with perfectly seasoned beef gyro, then topped with an over-easy fried egg, sealed on both sides with equal amounts of American cheese on one blissful bolillo. Don’t forget to douse your sando with their chile de árbol salsa, as fresh as it is fiery, especially if you’re looking for that extra spice.

The McTorta and Egg Sandwich at Angry Egret Dinette.

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Amboy Quality Meats & Delicious Burgers

The Amboy classic amongst the fancy and steakhouse classic burgers from Amboy Quality Meats and Delicious Burgers.

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The lively brasserie-esque storefront is owned and operated by Alvin Cailan, previously of Eggslut and, more recently, the popular YouTube series The Burger Show, co-hosted with George Motz. In the show, Cailan and Motz travel to remote cities throughout the country, trying different regional styles of burgers. This extensive research is put on full display at Amboy.

For around $10, you can get the Amboy classic, featuring a sesame seed bun, a smashed patty (for a little extra, you can add another patty), American cheese, grilled onions, and their signature burger sauce, Cailan’s take on something like In-N-Out’s. This sweet, creamy tanginess melts into the rest of the burger.

Meanwhile, the Steakhouse burger comes with their house steak sauce, a far cry from A1, with a robust taste that's equal parts sweet and umami perfectly complementing the rest of the burger. If you’re feeling extra special, opt for the Fancy Classic, made with melted provolone and aioli. Because you’re worth it.

Pedestrians and customers outside of Far East Plaza, where Amboy Quality Meats & Delicious Burgers.

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Perilla L.A.

Kimbap and the banchan rice combo from Perilla LA.

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Anyone who’s been to a Korean barbeque restaurant knows that one of the best things, aside from the glistening cuts of meat grilled in front of you, are the side dishes accompanying your meal.

Chef Jihee Kim, formerly of Rustic Canyon, has brought her specific spin to the style, creating a dining experience that solely focuses on the side dishes.

With offerings changing daily, based on what produce is readily available at the farmer's market, when we visited the banchan our choices included a soy sauce marinated okra with a slight char. It had a perfect flavor and texture in each bite, an interplay between the vegetable's saltiness and bitterness. Other choices include kimchi made with collard greens, a substantive and memorable taste, with aromatic spice and hearty leafy greens. Another favorite is the rolled egg, made with a rolled omelet with seaweed in its center, resulting in a cool refreshing sweet bite.

Pedestrians and customers outside of Perilla LA.

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